![]() ![]() The rustic, red-walled hideaway is accented with handmade wooden wine racks Vega's family china and art made with the corks of emptied wine bottles are evidence of the gastronomic merriment that's taken place over the years. ![]() A medium-grain rice from Murcia, Spain Mahon, a soft cow's-milk cheese from the island of Minorca smoky pimenton, a type of Spanish paprika and olive oil from Jaen, a city in the south of Spain. What makes Candela so endearing is Vega's knowledge of his painstakingly sourced ingredients. This is the type of experience you'll get from chef-owner Armando Vega and his wife Yudaris, a Cuban-born couple that dishes out authentic Latin and Mediterranean cuisine. You may be familiar with a restaurant where the chef knows your name and delivers your dish as if you were family. Just one block south of Oakland Park Boulevard and over a canal that hems the northern edge of the Island City, you'll find one of the area's best-kept secrets. But at Candela Restaurant in Wilton Manors, you can get an idea of what it's all about. “Every restaurant’s a comeback,” it says.In South Florida, where the recent small-plate obsession has tainted our palates (and pockets) with pricey, upmarket concept foods, we have no understanding of the Spanish art of celebrating food and drink. The Eastern Standard website - like the restaurant itself, as it points out - is currently under construction. It will be interesting to see what comes next from the team of Harker, Cannon, and Bolin. Elsewhere, there’s the refreshing, spirit-free Summer of Shrub, Friulano on tap, Mexican chardonnay, chilled Cinsault, and a tight list of easy-drinking beers including Fort Hill Fresh Pick IPA, Narragansett lager, and Rothaus Tannenzapfle pilsner. La Penùltima is a rummy salute to the bars of Puerto Rico, the Mahaniyom Special is a pandan-enhanced Old Fashioned that nods to Brookline’s excellent Thai restaurant, and the Spice Girl Margarita probably is, as the drinks list says, what you really, really want. The cocktail menu is concise and endearingly wacky, from the Band of Gypsies (made with turmeric and tomato) to the Banana Boulevardier (which brings one of my least favorite fruit flavors to one of my most favorite cocktails). Well here we are.ĭayboat scallop tiradito features a golden sauce warmed with aji amarillo and sprinkled with corn nuts and kernels of corn at All That Fish + Oyster. Writing about it a decade ago, I said that if it were in Boston, it would be a local favorite. It was at Cook & Brown, his Providence restaurant, that he blew me away, turning seasonal New England ingredients into precise but unstuffy and delicious dishes. 9 Park, Craigie Street Bistrot, and Locke-Ober, as well as Rubicon and Chez Papa in San Francisco. ![]() The group’s culinary director is Nemo Bolin, who has worked at places like No. (Next door, sister spots Island Creek Oyster Bar and The Hawthorne were no slouches either.)ĮS Hospitality makes its home on Beacon Street instead of Comm Ave this time, part of a luxury residence called Bower. There will also be a cafe, a bar called Equal Measure, and the cocktail cherry on top - a revived Eastern Standard, back after the beloved original closed in 2021. This is All That Fish + Oyster, the first of four new concepts in the Fenway from proprietor Garrett Harker and crew. The interior is spare and neutral, so the eye is drawn to what matters most: the raw bar, the people making cocktails, the glow from the semi-open kitchen to the side.
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